At 8 AM, took the bus to Ghandipuram bus station in Coimbatore to catch the bus to PSGR Krishnammal College and an appointment with the principal scheduled for 10 AM. Stepped off the bus at the city center with 18 rupees 25 pais. Bought a freshly- squeezed glass of pomegranate juice. Amazing. Realized only after finishing the drink that it cost 18 rupees. Decided to go directly to the ATM. En route, realized that my debit card was in the back zipper pocket of a canvas side bag presently sitting below the bedroom window at Matthew's house in Chavadipudur – an hour bus ride away. Realized I had no money to take a bus to my appointment at the college. Realized I had no money to take a bus home. Realized I had broken every rule of traveling1 in one morning. Long moment of silent stupor. Felt very sorry for myself and started laughing.
Decided to find a bank to see if someone could look up an international bank account and give me money without using a card. Walked 2 kilometers to the State Bank of India. Was greeted by an air conditioned lobby and promptly kicked out by the security guard because the bank didn't open until 10 AM. I was not special enough to take a place in the already growing inside line. Crossed the street. Sat down on the shady steps of a closed shop and pulled out Ghandi's autobiography to read for an hour. Moved to a shady bench when the shop opened and the owner kicked me off of his steps. Was approached by a beggar woman selling q-tips and held out my 25 pais – all of my money in the world. Was refused by the beggar woman. Another long period of silence, this time in deep thought. Returned to the bank. Was kicked out again, this time because they couldn't pull up international accounts. Shuffled back to the bus station. Despair. Had an innovative but humiliating thought. Acted on it: returned to the juice stand from earlier in the day. Begged the juice boy for a ten rupee loan with the promise of returning and repaying tomorrow. Was smirked at by the juice boy. Was given 10 rupees.
Swiftly boarded the bus to Chavidipudur. Rode an hour home. Grabbed the check card. Caught the bus back to Coimbatore. Visited an ATM. Repaid juice boy. Bought diapers and wipes for Jill and Ty's baby. Rode an hour home standing up smashed between ten women under five foot. Triumph! I will not be returning to PSGR Krishnammal.
1The Rules of Travel
Rule 1: Never travel alone
Rule 2: Always carry emergency cash on your person
Rule 3: Never agree to buy anything without knowing its price
Rule 4: Always carry official personal identification on your person
Rule 5: Avoid indebting yourself to someone of the opposite sex.
Rule 6: Expect disappointment
1 comment:
Natalie, this has been my favorite posting. Oh, those were great days!
Strangely enough, I'd never considered what it would mean to be begging from any of the local folks in India. I'm shocked at myself for not considering the possibility. Being forced to think about it made me realize how different things can be for any of us in life. Thanks for sharing the events of this particularly memorable day.
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